There are aspects of my job that, to an outsider,
can appear a little strange: eating warm pizza wedged into a narrow, 5,000 year
old chalk-cut tunnel, some 12 metres below the rain-swept surface of Norfolk
may well be one of them.
I was doing a small piece to camera, a discussion
on flint mining in the Neolithic, whilst simultaneously crawling through the
restricted space of a disused prehistoric mine gallery. It's one of the few
places in Britain where you can still get a feeling of how things may have been in the
Neolithic. Down here, in the claustrophobic space, cut from the
chalk by the men, women and children of prehistoric East
Anglia , there is no sense of the modern
world intruding upon you. No planes, trains or automobiles, no mobile signal,
no bird song. None of the distracting background 'chatter' of the modern
world.
Some of the galleries, where the deer antler
picks still lie, abandoned by their owners a mere five millennia ago, it can
feel as if the miners have only just stopped work, downed tools and popped back
up to the surface for a bite to eat. You sometimes get the eerie sense that
they may just return at any moment, demanding to know just what the hell you
think you're doing crawling around their workspace disturbing everything.
Empires have risen and fallen since these antler picks last saw the light of
day: Egypt, Greece, Rome, Persia have all have passed into history, but the
tools left by the Neolithic miners still reside deep underground, patiently
waiting for their owners to return.
Down here you also get a real sense, not just of the achievement of the
prehistoric communities that originally dug out the chalk and extracted the
necessary flint with tools made only of antler, bone and stone, but also of the
extreme difficulties they must have faced in the subterranean galleries. Elliot
Curwen, writing in the early 1930s about a flint mine in Sussex (Harrow Hill), observed, when first encountering a freshly exposed gallery:
"A long dark tunnel stretches before
us. Slowly and with awe, one of the excavators creeps into the gallery, candle
in hand, noticing everything, and careful to disturb nothing. He is acutely
conscious that he is the first human being to enter this underground workshop
for some four thousand years. Suddenly he catches sight of a row of holes
cleanly punched in the chalk wall while on the floor close by is a pick made
from the antler of a red deer; the holes look as if they had only been made
yesterday, fresh and clean-cut, with the chalk burred a little at the lip by
the pressure of the pick. Progress along the gallery is far from easy. One must
crawl on elbows and stomach, trailing useless legs over hard and angular pieces
of chalk, one’s fingers spluttered with candle grease. It is warm, and the
silence is intensified by the tiny, far-away song of the mosquitoes who have
found their way through the chinks in the chalk to this subterranean place of
repose."
Today, whilst facing the cameraman, sound
recordist and director, I am aware that they are blocking my only exit from the
tunnel, whilst behind me, disappearing back into the darkness, lurk the
still-blocked galleries, filled with chalk debris, antler picks, stone tools
and possibly, just possibly, the remains of the miners themselves.
We finally complete the interview and then
start to pack up. I crawl, as Curwen described, on elbows and stomach, 'trailing useless legs over hard and angular pieces
of chalk', past the crew to the deeper recesses of another gallery so that I may collect
my abandoned kit. As I enter the space, in the hazy light of my
helmet-mounted head-torch, three prehistoric picks are illuminated. Without thinking I pick one up
and hold the cold, damp artefact for a moment, turning it over it my hand and feeling its weight.
Then,
for no real reason, I turn off my light.
Behind
me (somewhere) I can hear the soundman locating his equipment and trying, unsuccessfully, to
put it all away whilst, to my right, another member of the team is crawling
slowly back towards the main shaft. Their muffled grunts and scrapes echo strangely
off the walls around me and I start to feel a little disorientated. I also have a curious
feeling that, when I do finally turn on my light, someone else will be in the
gallery with me; some ancient figure clasping a pick and caked with chalk dust
and sweat.
When
I do (eventually) turn the light back on, I am somewhat relieved to find that I am
alone.
I crawl back to the main shaft
and the ladder that connects us to the real world above. We have only been down in the chalk for 4 hours, but it seems like days. Grimes Graves is a truly magical place.
I apologise in advance for any praise induced uncomfortable shuffling this may cause...
ReplyDeleteHaving read this post (twice) it occurs to me that this is exactly the kind of inspiring recollection that should by tucked gently into a journal / popular media booklet (magazine) regarding Archaeology, or even in fact, dare I suggest it, on a certain institution's website.
It's not only inspiring, but it actually puts you there - and for me at least, it reminds me why I enjoyed Archaeology.
Thank you (uncomfortable shuffling aside), much appreciated. There are few places you can really 'experience' the Neolithic in the UK today and Grimes Graves is an amazing place - with regard to your other point, are you allowed to put 'inspiring recollections' on institutional websites? I'll look into that!
DeleteThink I caught this on BBC2 on Monday. You didn't say that the gorgeous Neil Oliver was sharing such an intimate space with you!
ReplyDelete
DeleteHi, no this (Sacred Wonders programme) was a different bit of filming - I shared an intimate space (as you put it) with Neil Oliver (rather than sharing Neil Oliver's intimate space - which is how rumours start) last summer. There were more of us in the subterranean galleries then, hence it was just a tad more claustrophobic (but still fun).
Always good to get back to the surface though....
Hello I would like to use your image of the antlel picks in my PhD thesis which is actuyally about coalmining. I am just trying to illustrate the fact that mining tools had not changed much in thousands of years before the introduction of machinery. May I use the image please. Best wishes Jim Coxon, Durham Anthropology.
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